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Mellokat Maine Coon’s Kitten Care Information
Pam & Tom
Klemm ~ 219-365-4927 ~ Email:
Mellokatmc@aol.com

Please read this information. These guidelines are provided to help care
for your new kitten. These hints, plus tender, loving care, will help keep
your kitten healthy, playful, and affectionate.
1.
Acclimatization
Please remember that this is your kitten’s first time away from the only
home it has known, and it will probably be insecure and confused at first.
Give the baby time, and don’t expect it to be best friends with you right
away. Keep the kitten introduction to other family members and pets quiet
and stress-free as possible and, most of all, give it time to become used
to the new surroundings. Show the kitten it’s litterbox, food, and water,
as soon as you get home, and then be prepared for accidents! However,
don’t spank the baby if it misses its litterbox! Rather, pick it up, put
it in its box, and gently make digging motions with it’s front paws. Young
kittens sometimes forget where their boxes are – this is normal, and will
pass quickly. Introduce the kitten to one room at a time, offer encourage
and petting, but allow it to procede to others. Try not to startle the
kitten, and again, remember that this is a stressful time, which brings us
to:
Stress: Your
kitten has had three series (1-Bivalent and 2-Trivalent by Heska) of
kitten vaccinations and is in good health. However, it is not unusual for
a new kitten to hide, be skittish, or refuse to eat for a couple of days.
He may also get a runny nose or eyes, and/or sneeze some in the first few
days after changing environment. Give lots of petting, soft speech, and
encouragement, and the first problems should clear up within a few days.
The runny nose/sneezing is nothing serious (so long as it isn’t
accompanied by a fever and/or diarrhea) and should also clear up within a
few days. If it doesn’t, call the breeder or your vet. Be aware that the
kitten will probably cry a lot the first couple of nights. Although it is
completely weaned, it is used to being around many other cats, and the
baby misses mom, littermates, and the smells of “home.” It is scared and
lonely. As soon as it makes friends with you and your other pet(s) this
crying will stop.
Other Pets:
If you have other pets, wait until the kitten is settled and comfortable
before bringing in other animals, one at a time. Do not leave the kitten
alone with the other pet(s) until you are certain they are good friends
(this may be several weeks). One good trick we have found is to give all
pets (including the new arrival) a bath about 24 hours after bringing the
kitten home. This way, everyone smells the same, and will most often
accept each other soon after. Be certain to give the “old” pets plenty of
attention, in order to keep them from being jealous, and to avoid stirring
territorial instincts to strongly. It is always possible that the original
pet may not take too kindly to someone new using it’s litterbox/food dish.
Be prepared for this by giving the kitten it’s own litterbox and
food/water dishes.
2:
Food-what kind, how much, how often?
Your kitten is completely weaned and has been eating Science Diet Nature’s
Best Kitten dry food with L-Lysine, available at all times, and of course,
plenty of fresh water. L-Lysine is an important amino acid that helps to
prevent Upper Respiratory Infections and keeps the virus from replicating.
Please introduce the kitten to any new foods gradually (over a 7-10 day
period) to avoid upsetting its stomach. New food should be mixed with food
the kitten is currently eating, gradually adding more of the new food and
less of the old until the kitten is eating the new food exclusively.
Treats won’t hurt the kitten’s health so long as they don’t exceed 10% of
the diet. Fish is not good them, they have found that the Ph in fish is
not good for them and their urinary tract systems. If you make a regular
habit of giving a treat after you finish eating, the kitten will learn to
look forward to it and will not bother you, your family, or your guests,
while you eat, but will wait patiently.
Contrary to popular
belief, cow’s milk is not
good for cats, as most cannot digest it properly, and consequsently get
diarrhea.
We recommend metal or china dishes. Plastic dishes can harbor germs in the
surface which can cause a condition known as feline acne. Feline acne is
small pimples on the chin, which cause swelling and discomfort, and can be
very difficult to clear up. We recommend the “Drinkwell” brand electric
water fountain (or a water fountain of your choice) for our cat’s water
because research has shown that it encourages cats to drink more water.
More water intake is beneficial for their health and urinary tract health.
I know that the water fountains are made of plastic which contradicts the
above recommendation of metal or china dishes but the benefit of the water
fountain outweighs not using one. We recommend keeping the fountain as
clean as possible, cleaning with antibacterial liquid soap (do not clean
the charcoal filter with soap), every few days to keep bacteria from
forming. Please rinse well.
3:
Care-Do’s and Don’ts
Because such
potentially fatal feline diseases as Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV), and
respiratory viruses, internal and external parasites, not to mention
automobiles and other hazards, such as being attacked by another animal to
name a few, we beg you
not
to let your kitten run freely outside. If you choose to ignore this, the
chances are good that the kitten will not survive it’s first year. If,
however, you keep the kitten inside, or only take it out on a leash (as
described below) life expectancy is 12+ years.
Safety: Before you let your new kitten loose in your home, check for the following
safety hazards:
*
Electrical and phone cords left dangling
* Toilet lids left up (a
kitten can easily drown in a toilet bowl)
* Open fire screens
* Reclining chairs (the
mechanism of the chairs can easily crush a kitten who has crawled up
inside).
* Hide-away beds (again they
can crush a kitten caught in the mechanism).
* Fringe, or any loose trim
(kittens have been known to strangle when their heads get twisted in the
fringe or in a hole between trim and fabric).
* Dangling drapery or mini
blind cords (another invitation to strangulation).
* Accessible garbage
(especially any kind of bones - bones can either splinter and perferate
the stomach or intestines or form an intestinal blockage).
* Needles and/or thread;
kitting and/or crocheting materials.
* Rubber bands (which can
wrap around the intestines).
* Plastic wrap (the kitten
can eat it, strangle on it, or suffocate in it).
* Plastic bags
* Styrofoam (especially
packaging "peanuts") which the kitten may eat.
* Cigarettes (yes, they will
eat them)!!
* Yarn toys (if they come
unraveled, they can wrap around the intestines or block them).
* Toys with easily removed
and swallowed parts.
* Cellophane (it turns
glassy in the stomach and can cause internal lacerations).
* Open refrigerators,
dishwashers, microwaves, ovens, washers, dryers - always check!
* Put away feathers and toys
attached to string (such as kitty teasers) after use. Kittens and
cats will often eat feathers and swallow string.
Keep your workshop off
limits. Cats will jump at moving objects such as drills and power
saws. They may also swallow screws, nails, wire, and other small
parts.
Kittens like
to taste everything. Keep all cleaning
products and other chemicals (lighter fluid,
furniture polish, etc) stored away and out
of reach. Anything with phenyl (check the
label) is deadly to cats (this includes
Lysol). Cats love to drink out of toilet
bowls, it’s wise not to use anything in your
toilet or make sure the lid is down at all
times (except some cats have been known to
raise toilet lids). The best disinfectant to
use is: 1 part bleach to 30 parts water.
Remember, a cat will lick its paws, so be
careful what you use on your floors.
4:
Training
Contrary
to widespread belief, cats are trainable by
proper methods: Rewards and tangible, but
removed punishment (see “squirt bottle
method” below). Be firm and patient with
your kitten. By teaching it the house rules
now, you can avoid future behavioral
problems. Actions that are cute in a kitten
may not seem so cute in an adult (such as
nursing on your arm, or sitting on the
dining room table, or counter top in the
kitchen). If the kitten scratches it’s claws
where it should not, say “NO,” take it to
the scratching post and gently make
scratching motions with its feet. Kittens
respond well to a firm voice and patience.
They are naturally fastidious, and want to
behave.
Squirt
Bottle Method:
Behavior problems that don’t respond the
“NO” can usually be modified by giving the
kitten a quick shot from a spray bottle.
This method removes you from the punishment
in the kitten’s mind, which is desirable for
two reasons: The kitten does not begin to
fear you as the source or punishment (as it
would if you spank! Please do not
spank!) it thinks the water an “Act of God,”
and will refrain from the undesirable
behavior even if you are not around. (A
similar method works from keeping your
kitten from running outdoors: Stand,
outside, hose in hand, door open, and spray
the kitten when it steps outside, after a
few times, the kitten will decide that
there’s nothing out there it wanted anyway).
It is best to never let you kitten get used
to the outdoors in the first place, because
then they usually do not have the desire to
go running out the door.
Play – When,
How long, What Kind:
Kittens and adult Maine Coons like to play.
Generally the morning or evening (following
afternoon naps) is the best time if you want
an enthusiastic response, especially in an
adult cat. We try to discourage rough play
as this can make the kitten aggressive. DO
NOT roll the kitten over, grab it, and
vigorously rub their stomach. This will also
make the kitten become aggressive. When you
play with the kitten always use a toy, do
not use your hands or feet as a toy. Imagine
an adult Maine Coon attacking your feet and
hands! Soft toys with no easy to remove/easy
to swallow pieces are good; large pom pom or
tinsel balls, catnip bags, furry mice and
feather teasers are all good choices. With
these you can have the kitten fetch, chase,
pounce, and jump, which is all good exercise
for the kitten. (If you are using a teaser,
do not leave the kitten unattended with
them; the kitten may ingest the feathers or
tinsel or get poked in mouth or eye with the
stick).
Remember
that what your kitten needs most is your
time and attention. Especially if it is left
alone during the day, it will be very glad
to see you and will be very demanding of
your attention! Please remember that kittens
are sensitive, living creatures, and do not
allow your children, friends, or other pets
to manhandle this baby. One sure way to
guarantee an unsatisfactory pet is to
mistreat it, even if inadvertently. On the
other hand, plenty of attention, love, and
considerate play will result in a companion
that will give you years of pleasure.
General Notes:
Booster
shots will not be required until one year
from the kitten’s last shot. We do not
recommend the FeLV or the FIP vaccine. But
if your vet advises giving your kitten the
FeLV vaccine, be aware that having the FeLV
vaccine series does NOT guarantee that the
kitten will be immune to FeLV, and you must
be just as careful about exposing the kitten
to a possibly FeLV-positive cat as you would
be if the shots had not been given. FeLV
vaccines have been known to cause cancer at
the shot sites.
Cats do love certain scents.
One of their favorites is antifreeze, which
will kill them very quickly. If your kitten
should get into antifreeze and you discover
it in time, run to the nearest vet or
emergency clinic.
Following is
a list of plants that are in some degree
poisonous to cats: Anemone, black cherry,
bloodroot, buttercup, caladium, castor bean,
elemadis, crocus cycads, daphne (splurge
laurel), delphinium, dicentra (bleeding
heart), dieffenbachia, elephants ear,
English ivory, foxpulpit, jerusalum cherry,
jimson weed, lantana (red sage), larkspur,
lily-of-the-valley, mistletoe, morning
glory, mountain laurel, oleander,
philodendren, Poinciana (bird of paradise),
poison ivy, poison oak, pokeweed,
rhododendron, solandra (trumpet flower),
star of Bethlehem (snow drop), sweet pea,
thornapple, wisteria, and yew.
Collars and Leashes:
If you use a collar on your kitten, check it
daily to be sure it is not becoming too
tight as the kitten grows. However, a kitten
can catch its lower jaw in a too-loose
collar. A breakaway collar is the best
choice, as it will separate if it becomes
caught on something. If you train your
kitten to use a leash, use a harness
designed for cats – not a collar. Remember
that harnesses are not totally secure, and a
cat wearing a harness or a leash should
NEVER be left unsupervised. The cat can slip
out of the harness or strangle itself. Never
walk a leashed cat near a roadway or busy
sidewalk unless you are sure that the cat is
very calm. The noise and motion of cars,
people, other animals, etc, can cause a cat
to panic, slip out of the harness, and dash
into danger. The best place for your leashed
cat is in your own quiet backyard with you.
Travelling:
When you take your cat in the car
always
put it in a carrier. A cat or kitten
roaming around the car is dangerous for you
and your cat. A carrier will also protect
you cat or kitten if you are in an accident.
When you go to the vet make sure you use a
carrier to take the cat into the clinic. It
helps keep the cat from getting away from
you in a stressful situation and protects
the cat from other animals. Put a towel or
pad in the bottom of the carrier and cover
the carrier in cold weather. It is a good
idea to have paper towels and plastic bags
in your car in case there is an accident.
NEVER leave your pet in the car in any kind
of weather unattended. People are known to
lock themselves out. J
It only takes a short period of time for
temperatures to become dangerous for your
cat or kitten.
Grooming:
Maine Coons coats are easy to maintain. A
weekly combing with a steel-tooth comb
(course/medium type) that has wide teeth on
one end and narrow teeth on the other is all
that is generally necessary. However, you
may have to comb your cat more often in the
spring and fall, which may be seasons of
heavy shedding. Pay particular attention to
the areas behind and around the ears, the
ruff, flanks, britches, and under the front
legs. These are the areas where mats most
readily form. Very important:
Please handle, bathe, clip nails, and groom
your kitten regularly so it becomes second
nature to them. It will make these things
much easier to do when the kitten is an
adult.
If you
wish to keep your cat looking like a
champion, a bath once a month with a good
shampoo, plenty of rinsing, blow drying, and
combing afterwards is recommended.
Show Bath:
If the cat is oily/greasy, usually behind
the ears, the ruff, the underside and tail,
work GOOP (the hand cleaner) into the greasy
areas on a dry coat. It helps to warm the
GOOP in the microwave for 15-20 seconds to
make it lukewarm and easier to massage into
the coat. Wrap the cat in a towel and hold
for 5 to 10 minutes. In one side of the sink
make a mixture of warm water, Woolite, and
Dawn. It works best to put the cat in the
empty side of the sink. Rinse out the areas
where the GOOP was applied then pour the
water/woolite/dawn water of the whole kitty
(except for head). Soap the cat using the
Dawn and then rinse. Then soap the cat a
second time with MegaAussie Shampoo and
rinse. Rinse, rinse, rinse! Put the stopper
in the sink and rinse one more time to be
sure all of the soap has been rinsed out the
hair. Then using a damp paper towel, clean
the kitty’s eyes, nose, and ears. Squeeze
out the feet and tail and then towel dry.
For blow drying, we put the cat in an empty
carrier with a towel in the bottom and
either hold the dryer or prop the dryer at
least 12 inches away from the carrier until
cat is mostly dry. Let the kitten air dry
the rest of the way. Once dry comb the coat
to remove any knots or tangles. The kitten
will not be use to the GOOP procedure, as we
have not done this on them (until they are
older). We only use GOOP to clean greasy
areas before a show.
Coongratulations on your new baby and family
member!!! You will LOVE your easy-going,
yet active, gentle Maine Coon! They are the
best!!

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